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You’re not using too much chemical… you’re using it wrong.

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You’re not using too much chemical… you’re using it wrong.

As work starts to ramp up—especially heading into heavier garment runs—most screen printers notice the same thing.

Chemicals start disappearing faster than expected.

Screenwash gets chewed through.
Dip tanks lose strength quicker.
Haze remover gets used more often than it should.

The natural reaction is:
👉 “we need more product”

But in most cases, that’s not the issue.

What’s actually happening is this:

👉 the chemistry is doing more work than it was designed to do

And once you understand that, you stop using more—and start getting more out of what you already have.

What screen printing chemicals are actually doing

Screen printing chemicals aren’t just there to “clean.”

They’re designed to:

  • break down ink at a chemical level
  • dissolve stencil systems
  • lift contaminants from the mesh

But they all rely on one thing:

👉 efficient contact and correct process

If that breaks down, everything becomes less effective.

Dip tanks: where most waste starts

Dip tanks are one of the biggest hidden costs in a reclaim setup.

A properly mixed solution—like AGM Golden Stripper at a 1:5 ratio—is designed to efficiently break down stencil and ink across multiple screens.

But that only works if the solution isn’t overloaded.

dip tank in jones brothers printechnology wash room for screen printing screens

What’s actually happening in the tank

ThWhen a screen goes into a dip tank:

  • the solution starts breaking down emulsion
  • it begins loosening remaining ink
  • it works across the entire mesh

But if that screen is still covered in ink:

👉 the solution is forced to break down bulk ink first

Instead of:

  • focusing on stencil removal

it’s:

  • burning energy on unnecessary contamination

The fix most printers skip

Before placing a screen into the dip tank:

👉 scrape as much ink off as possible

This:

  • reduces chemical load
  • keeps the solution stronger for longer
  • maintains faster reclaim times

If you skip this:

  • the solution weakens faster
  • soak times increase
  • chemical usage goes up

Same tank. Worse performance.

screen printer doing a test print with a squeegee

Screenwash: it’s not about how much you pour

Screenwash waste almost always comes down to process.

Most printers:

  • pour it on
  • wipe quickly
  • repeat

Which leads to:
👉 more product being used to compensate for poor process

Matching the right screenwash to the ink

Different inks require different chemistry.

Green Citrus Wash

Best for:

  • plastisol inks

It’s built to:

  • cut through heavier ink films
  • break down plastisol efficiently
  • work best with agitation and dwell time

Green Eco Wash

Best for:

  • solvent inks
  • UV inks

It’s formulated to:

  • dissolve more aggressive ink systems
  • handle a wider range of contaminants
  • support fast cleaning in production environments

Same process, different chemistry

Even though the chemistry changes, the process shouldn’t.

The 3-step rag method (this is where efficiency comes from)

Step 1 — Break down the ink

Apply screenwash and agitate with a rag.

👉 this activates the chemistry and starts degrading the ink

Step 2 — Remove the bulk

Flip the rag.

Apply a small amount again and remove most of the ink.

👉 now you’re lifting, not breaking down

Step 3 — Clean the remainder

Fold the rag again (or use a fresh section) and remove remaining residue.

👉 final clean, minimal product

Why this works

You’re separating:

  • chemical breakdown
  • physical removal
  • final cleaning

Instead of trying to do everything at once.

Which results in:

  • less product used
  • more effective cleaning
  • better consistency

Haze remover: where shortcuts cost the most

Haze remover is often overused—not because it’s weak, but because earlier steps were rushed.

Haze isn’t just leftover ink. It’s:

  • embedded pigment
  • staining inside the mesh
  • contamination from incomplete cleaning

Why skipping steps increases chemical use

If you:

  • don’t fully break down ink
  • don’t allow screenwash to work
  • rush reclaim

👉 haze remover has to do more than it should

Which leads to:

  • higher usage
  • longer dwell times
  • more aggressive cleaning

Proper process reduces haze remover use

Using the correct cleaning sequence—like:

  • agitation
  • dwell time
  • thorough rinsing

(as seen with systems like Green Citrus Wash) ensures the screen is properly prepared before haze removal

The bigger picture: chemistry + process

All of this comes back to one idea:

👉 chemicals are designed to work with a process—not replace it

If the process is:

  • rushed
  • inconsistent
  • overloaded

You’ll use:

  • more chemical
  • more time
  • more effort

Practical takeaway

To get more out of your chemicals:

  • scrape ink before the dip tank
  • match screenwash to the ink type
  • use a structured cleaning process
  • let chemistry do the work before removing it
  • don’t rely on haze remover to fix earlier mistakes

Final thought

Using less chemical doesn’t come from using less product.

It comes from:
👉 using it properly

When the process is dialled in:

  • your chemicals last longer
  • your screens clean faster
  • your results become more consistent

And over time, that compounds.

Want more like this?

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FAQs

Why do my screen printing chemicals run out so quickly?

In most cases, it’s not the product—it’s the process.

If chemicals are being used to:

  • break down heavy ink loads
  • compensate for rushed cleaning
  • or fix earlier steps

👉 they get consumed much faster than intended.

A proper workflow reduces how hard the chemistry has to work.

Should I be removing ink before using a dip tank?

Yes—and this is one of the biggest factors in extending dip tank life.

If screens go into the tank with excess ink still on them, the solution has to break that down first before it can work on emulsion.

👉 scraping ink first keeps the solution stronger for longer and improves reclaim efficiency.

What’s the difference between Green Citrus Wash and Green Eco Wash?

They’re designed for different ink systems:

Green Citrus Wash → best for plastisol inks
Green Eco Wash → best for solvent and UV inks

Both work using the same cleaning process, but matching the chemistry to the ink improves performance and reduces product usage.

Why does the 3-step rag method use less screenwash?

Because it separates the job into stages:

  • breaking down the ink
  • removing the bulk
  • cleaning the remainder

Instead of trying to do everything at once, each step uses the chemical more efficiently.

👉 this reduces waste and improves cleaning consistency.

Why do I end up using so much haze remover?

Usually because earlier steps weren’t completed properly.

If ink isn’t fully broken down and removed before reclaim, residue gets embedded into the mesh.

👉 haze remover then has to work harder, which increases usage.

When the process is done correctly, haze remover becomes a finishing step—not a recovery tool.

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